|
Sheldon Stowell's
1000cc Race Rhino
MOTOR: HONDA RC-51 Updated 9-04-08
DISPLACEMENT: 1000cc V-TWIN
INDUCTION: FUEL INJECTION W / WALBORO 225LPH PUMP
CLUTCH: CUSTOM LOCK UP
DRIVE: RPM REVERSE GEAR BOX 5.5 TO 1 RATIO
CHAIN: RK X-RING 530
SPROCKETS: JT STEEL 15 TOOTH / RPM 17 TOOTH
SUSPENSION: LONE STAR XTR 6.5" LONG TRAVEL
SHOCKS: ELKA ELITE RACE SERIES
STEERING: GEAR ONE RACK & PINION
UPPER STEERING: GEAR ONE BEARING BOX
SPINDLES: RHINO WITH LSR GUSSETING
FRONT HUBS: RHINO
FRONT BRAKES: STREAMLINE ROTORS & PADS
REAR HUBS: GEAR ONE CENTER BOARD WITH DISC BRAKES
WHEELS: DOUGLAS 14" RATTLESNAKE 4/3 OFFSET
TIRES: MAXXIS BIG HORN 26"
ROLL CAGE: CUSTOM 1-3/4" DOM STEEL
BODY: FULL BORE RACE PLASTICS
SEATS: PRP HIGH BACK
GUSSETS: LSR FULL GUSSET KIT
SUPPORT: LSR FRONT AND REAR GUSSET PLATES
LIGHTS: TBA
This is the Honda RC51 V-Twin Engine. It is rated at 120hp stock. It features fuel injection and a hydrualic clutch which will make for a easy adaptation to the offroad vehicle. It's narrow case will also allow me to keep the seats close together so the Rhino body will not have to be severly widened.
To get the power to the wheels I have decided to use a RPM gear box that features 930 C/V's and a internal reverse gear. This unit has been tested up to 300hp so I am sure it will hold up in my build. Plus it's compact design will be easy to fit between the Rhino frame rails.
For my Rhino I wanted to keep most of the weight centered and balanced side to side. To do so I decided to use dual 5 gallon fuel cells monted on either side of the frame under the seats. This also keeps my bed area wide open for other options. So that is the first thing I started fabing on the bare frame.
 The RCI fuel cells were the perfect size. The only thing I will need to do is weld in a filler tube on the back of one tank and install a transfer pump so both tanks stay equal and I can mount the seats low to the top of the tank.
Once the seats were mounted I set the motor inbetween them to see where I needed to run the support bars for the motor mounts.
I decided since this chassis will have full side panels the best way to get the motor in and out will be through the bottom of the frame. So for my motor mounts I am going to creat a cradle that allows the motor to drop out of the mounts.
Once I had my rails located. I moved on to the rest of the cage. With my design I can come back later and finish the motor mounts.
I already had my XTR suspension as well so I went a head and bolted it up. The cage will be almost the same height as stock becasue I plan to mount my light bar in the cage instead of on top. Also my seats are only about 1.5" lower than stock.
Next I moved back to setting the gear box. The gear box sprocket hub has about 4" of slide from side to side to line up with the motor drive sprocket so my main focus was on centering it in the frame so my axles are close in length. At this point the box will be solid mounted and I plan on running a chain tensioner. This may change as I get farther along.
I did do a quick mockup previously to make sure the 4" will still be in line when I go to set the motor mounts.
Next I aligned the motor and started the cradle. The RC-51 has real easy mounting points. So I was able to use mostly straight shots of 1" chromoly to the bolt bosses.
On theright side I decided to use the swing arm pivot tube as a main support. The angle of the chain will not allow it to go on both sides but I figured it is too large of a support to let go to waste. So I welded in a side plate and ran a pivot bolt through it. The sprocket side will get a steel cap to secure the bolt.
To cool this beast everyone was pushing towards the Hyabussa radiator with an electric fan . After calling around I found that aftermarket radiators are upwards of $500. So I took some demensions and found you can get a Honda Civic 1.8" core radiator on ebay for $109.00. Since it cools a 4 cylinder engine it should have no problem cooling this V-twin. It will get outfitted with an electric fan later on.
Next I needed to finish up the rear of the cage. I needed to raise the bed level to clear the gearbox disc so I welded in two straight tubes. This will also give me my support for the rear of the Rhino
The back of the cage was probably one of the hardest things I had to figure out. I did not want to do a big oval like many race Rhino's since you loose so much access to your bed area. Other then wrap way down and I just don't like the look of them. So this is what I came up with.
Next I came squared off with 1.25" tube to build my rear fender supports.
|
